Deep dive - Rhaphidophora tetrasperma
This is what Rhaphidophora tetrasperma are not: Monsteras. Nor are they Philodendrons. Rhaphidophora tetrasperma are typically called mini Monsteras, Monstera ginny, climbing Monstera, and Split leaf philodendrons. These are all wrong, unfortunately, so let’s all stop incorrectly naming these plants. We all know the real reason is because their actual scientific name is long and awful looking. Rhaphidophora tetrasperma? Gosh!
Which brings me to: how do you pronounce Rhaphidophora tetrasperma? If you’re like me, you avoid the name because it’s long and most likely going to be botched. But fear not! It’s actually not that bad: Rah-fid-doe-FOR-AH Teh-trah-SPERM-ma. Ok, it’s still pretty awful.
Rhaphidophora tetrasperma are part of the Araceae family but are a genus all their own called Rhaphidophora. They aren’t strictly jungle houseplants either, they can live in dry climates or rainforests making them a pretty low-key houseplant. They’re aroids which means they’re grabby growers and will benefit from a trellis or moss pole to grow alongside them.
Are you Rhaphidophora tetrasperma safe for pets?
Because they’re part of the Araceae family (which is home to Monsteras and philodendrons conveniently) these guys contain calcium oxylate crystals which are toxic to dogs and cats. These crystals can lead to internal damage like stomach pain and lethargy and external pain such as mouth stinging. Like all other Araceae plants, keep these out of reach of pets. And remember, because Rhaphidophora tetrasperma are trailers, be aware of them “hanging” where pets can grab, snack on, and pillage them.
Ok, ok, care is like a Monstera, so if you have a Monstera deliciosa, you’re in luck, but I want to remind you these aren’t Monsteras.
Light: Keep out of direct hot sun. Rhaphidophora tetrasperma prefer diffused bright light, such as a few feet from an east or west window. Too much harsh sun can turn the leaves yellow.
Watering: This depends on how bright sunlight levels are, but you can let these dry out a bit. They’re avid growers but I wouldn’t go any more than once a week in winter and a few times a week in summer depending on how warm their environment is. I always recommend a moister meter.
Soil Mix: Go for a chunky soil blend, nothing peaty or overly water-holding. I suggest 50% indoor plant soil and the rest equal parts perlite, orchid bark, small stones and charcoal. You want an airy mix that drains well.
While this plant is pretty hands-off, there can be problems. Here’s some basic troubleshooting when you sense some unhappiness or sadness from your long-named friend.
Yellowing leaves: Too much sun or overwatering. If the plant is too close to the window, it can cause chlorophyll loss. If this isn’t it, it’s mostly likely overwatering. Be sure to only water when the soil is 80% dry and avoid soggy bottoms and drafts.
No fenestrations: Fenestrations, or the slits in the leaves, are the best part of these plants, I know. Young plants may not have splits and that’s ok! As the plants gets older, the leaves will begin to split; providing ample sunlight and love speeds this process along, too.
Metallic streaked or ruined leaves: Either spider mites (you’ll see webbing on the underside of leaves) or small black thrips (which leave a metallic sheen on the leaves). Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma leaves are thin, so you want to check for bugs weekly and apply an insecticide at the first signs.
All of those visible yummy nodes on Rhaphidophora tetraspermas can become new plants! Because these guys grow quick, you may want to trim them regularly to keep the plant from looking leggy. Cut a chunk of the plant with a leaf or two and a node. Place the node in water or wrap some moist sphagnum moss around it and watch the roots form! It should sprout roots within a few weeks and be ready to plant in a few months.
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